This build started off as pretty much of an accident. I ordered the wrong kit from Roll Models but I decided to proceed with the kit anyhow. This kit is a great leap forward from the kit Monogram had to offer. I built the kit right out of the box and this is the first time I have ever used any kit decals for the cockpit interior. To my surprise they worked out pretty well. I bought an Aires Cockpit kit but I couldn't get it to fit in the cockpit area of the model so I just decided to see how the kit parts would work. Although you lose some detail by using instrument decals, with a little weathering around the instrument and side panels a realistic cockpit can be achieved. I also added some seat belts to the kit seat to enhance the cockpit. Turns out it came out pretty nice.

I think the only complaint I have with the kit is that Trumpeter gives you all these pylons and the TER's to mount ordinance on but there isn't any ordinance in the kit. Baffling to me but that's why modelers have a spare parts box I guess. I armed this F-100C with six Mk82 GP bombs on TER's on the inboard pylons, two 335 Gal. extra fuel tanks on the middle pylons and two naplam canisters on the outboard pylons. I robbed the Mk82 bombs from a Monogram F-4 kit and cut off the fuse extenders to modilfy them to the GP type.

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The mold engineering is amazing with these new kits. After detailing the cockpit area and adding some weight to the nose area to keep the nose wheels on the ground there really was no effort in putting the model together. The wings fit nicely to the fuselage and there was absolutely no need to do any filling in the wing root area. I added some stretch sprue of very minute diameter to the wing root to increase the strength of the wing root. The fuselage went together just as easily with very little sanding and surface detail loss.

The entire model was primed using an OEM automotive light gray lacquer primer. After sanding out any noticeable seams the entire model was again primed and rubbed out with some 000000 steel wool in preparation for the Natural Metal Finish. Although I had a very bad experience with the Alclad NMF's on my last build ( the paint never seemed to quite set up and dry) I decided to try the finish again as I had heard that this problem had been fixed. I used the Alclad Duraluminum on the entire model and to my relief it worked like the Alclad paint I was used to using in the past. I still think this is the most durable and the most realistic of the NMF's available to modelers, provided these guys that produce the paint quit messing with the formula!! I think they might have it down to the right science now.

I think one of the most challenging parts of building an accurate and realistic F-100 is doing the burnt metal area around the tail section of the aircraft where the engine and afterburning section is. I was careful in trying not to overdue it and in the process I think I might have under done it. I used the Alclad Dark Aluminum mixed with some Testors Model Master Rust thinned down with about 70% lacquer thinner before adding it to the Alclad paint. Although I wish I had shaded it a little darker I think the effect was achieved. 

The first of the Century Series of US jet fighters this North American F-100C was attached to the 333rd FDS, 4th FW at Seymour-Johnson AFB, North Carolina circa 1959.  For the markings I used SuperScale sheet MS481247.  The national insignia and USAF markings were from an Aeromaster sheet for the F-100.  I decided to use this sheet for the standard F-100 markings while I waited for the SuperScale sheet to arrive in the mail.  Having not known that the standard markings were in insignia blue on the Aeromaster sheet, I wouldn't have used them although the factory applied markings were in insignia blue from what I have read. 

Steve Negley

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