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With some superb releases from the Revell stable over the past few years, the
arrival of the Fiat G.91 has been eagerly awaited, anticipation being heightened
by the postponement of it’s release. Indeed, the copyright engraving inside
the fuselage carries the date "1999". When I saw the kit in my local
model store, I was somewhat surprised at the relatively small amount of plastic
in the large box, especially in view of the hefty GBP 8.95 price tag. This air
of bemusement was not diminished when I conducted my initial inspection of the
kit. It seems as though it has been released in some haste and that it should
have had more work on the moulds…
Construction follows the usual sequence, starting with the interior details.
First sub-assembly is the ejector seat, in three parts and fairly well detailed.
I added some etched brass seat belts and a "pull handle", made in my
preferred method with two plaited strands of pre-painted yellow and black
electrical wire. The seat fits into a cockpit tub, which has moulded in rudder
pedals and console detail. The underside of the cockpit tub also forms the
interior of the engine intake. Next, the nose wheel well, main wheel well and
air brake interior and the instrument panel are added, along with the jet pipe.
All these have reasonable detail, as does the instrument panel. All the interior
areas were painted Dark Compass Grey, with the instrument panel in Anthracite,
drybrushed in pale grey to accentuate the instruments. I painted the jet pipe
with Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel, which buffs to a nice dull steel colour.
On the instruction sheet, Stage 5 recommends the fitting of the cannon barrels
to the gun bay panels. If you are going to build the "Sharkmouth"-decalled
version, leave them off until the end – or you’ll have a hard time with the
decals!
Before cementing the fuselage halves together, I added some lead shot, not
into the area above the nosewheel as shown on the instructions (where it would
be visible through the engine intake), but behind the cockpit interior, forward
of the centre of gravity. This is a point worth remembering for any aircraft
with a tricycle undercarriage, that you can add weight anywhere forward of the
main wheels – including engine nacelles on prop jobs!
One note of caution here, on my example, the main wheel well/air brake well
(part # 9) required some careful trimming to ensure a snug fit.
Next stage is to add the gun bay panels and the photo recce nose cone. The
gun bay panels have detailed interiors, as do the gun bays themselves – but,
there are no gun/cannon breeches, which adds to the impression that this kit was
rushed through the final stages to get it onto the shelves. The fit of these
parts is very poor and on my next example (yes, I’ll buy another one or two…
when the price drops!) I’ll add some thin .05 thou plastic card around the
edges. The nose itself has three poorly-defined camera ports, which I drilled
out and squared off, once I’d worked out their layout. Note that the two
oblique ports are asymmetric. The apertures were filled with Humbrol Clearfix
after painting and varnishing were completed. The nose cone for the earlier
versions of the "Gina" is also included in the kit, as are the
underwing tanks used by the Frecce Tricolore PAN aircraft, leading me to believe
that we should see an Italian Air Force version of this model, hopefully in the
not-too-distant future.
Stages 8, 9 and 10 are concerned with the assembly of the wings and ailerons.
When fitting the wings in Stage 10, care must be taken with the alignment of the
wheel wells, as the tabs on the wings have a fair amount of free play in their
corresponding fuselage slots!
Assembly of the undercarriage and underwing stores and wing fences follows
next. The instruction sheet recommends that the undercarriage is allowed to dry
for at least 5 hours before standing the aircraft upright. Not so if you use CA
adhesive! Each of the undercarriage bay doors and the airbrakes are all moulded
as complete items and each has to be carefully split into their separate
components before assembly. This makes life easier for those who like to display
their models "in flight". The canopy is moulded in two parts, allowing
it to be posed "open" and there appears to be a space in the clear
sprue for the lower-profile canopy used on the earlier versions of this
aircraft. I may yet be able to make a model of one of the trials aircraft tested
by the US Army!
Perhaps the strangest part of the instruction sheet is Stage 22. This deals
with the fitting of the underwing stores and, again, has the "5 hour"
caution. There is also a diagram to show the modeller how to make an additional
pitot tube for the port wingtip out of 9mm of stretched sprue (that on the
starboard wing being moulded on)! I found this to be totally bizarre for a kit
costing so much! I measured up the starboard pitot and fabricated the port tube
from two sections of plastic rod of different thickness, difficult, but not
impossible…
To paint the model, I used Xtracolor RAL colours Basaltgrau and Gelboliv on
the upper surfaces with Silbergrau on the undersurfaces. The model was
brush-painted, except for the Revell Day-Glo Orange on the drop tanks, which was
airbrushed on over a white base coat.
The instructions suggest Revell paints and give mixes to get the correct
colours, but the camouflage scheme diagrams also list the RAL paint numbers. I
wish that more manufacturers would follow this example.
Finally, the decal sheet. This looked excellent at first glance and I must
admit that the decals printed for Revell in Italy are usually much better than
some of their stuff from the 1990’s! However, when I came to apply the decals,
it soon became apparent that the register was very bad and that there was a lot
of white undercoat showing around the markings, especially noticeable on the red
warning stripes around the fuselage and on the wing roots. I solved this by
carefully applied paint and even more careful use of a new blade in my scalpel
to trim away the excess! I chose to depict the "Sharkmouth" version
flown by Le.KG 41 in 1979. The "Sharkmouth" decals each had to be cut
into three parts to allow me to bed them down over the cannon blisters, and I
had to apply small areas of red paint to fill in some gaps. I also had to add
some "missing" teeth at the front of the decal and inside the engine
intake, for which there is an ill-fitting decal without a red background!
Dentistry and modelling combined!!
There were numerous stencils to apply and most went on well, but I’m sad to
say that there was some silvering, despite the decals being applied onto a very
glossy surface and the use of Super Set and Super Sol. Generally though, the
decals set nicely and bedded down into the panel detail very well.
I airbrushed on a coat of Xtracolor matt varnish and allowed it to dry before
applying some very restrained weathering, using pastel chalk. This was sealed
with another airbrushed coat of Xtracolor matt varnish. The finishing touch was
the glazing of the camera ports and the fitting of the canopy, the frames of
which I had dulled down with brushed-on Warbirds acrylic matt varnish.
Was it worth waiting for? Well, I enjoyed building it, especially as I’d
committed myself to writing this, my first review! However, I do have some
criticisms. Firstly, the cost – very expensive for what’s in the box,
especially when you can get a superb Tornado or F-4 for the same price.
Secondly, there are too many indications that production was rushed, including
areas of superfluous detail in the gun bays and the totally wacky "How to
make pitot tubes" instructions. Final criticism, please Revell, sort out
your decal sheets! They are the only thing that consistently let down your
superb recent kits!
And one for the aviation buffs…
…an "air to air" of a "Gina" of Le.KG 41
Chris
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